Out and About: Abacus
December 25, 2007Merry Christmas! I hope you have all eaten until your bellies are bursting, I know I have. I’m definitely past the point of having put on a “holiday coat” and am currently into the realm of a “holiday parka.” By the end of the week I plan to be sporting an igloo.
I traveled to Nashville for the week to celebrate Christmas with my family. The food filled time thus far has been documented, but that’s for a later post; however, the night before I left, Johnny and I ventured out to Dallas to eat at Abacus for our own Christmas celebration.
If you’re a Top Chef Miami fan, you may recognize Abacus as the home base for Tre Wilcox; one of the season’s favorite and most talented chefs. Tre was one of our favorites throughout the season (even with the unfortunate bread pudding incident that led to his demise) and he, as well as many rave reviews, promoted us to test the restaurant’s reputation. A reservation is necessary, and ours was made over a month in advance, but I must say the wait was well worth the reward.
The atmosphere within Abacus is upscale without being overly pretentious, and definitely noteworthy. the kitchen is in plain sight and it was not long before Johnny and I spotted Chef de Cuisine Tre(!) hustling about. The wait staff is extremely attentive, and the service immaculate. The menu changes frequently to Executive Chef Kent Rathburn’s liking.
First out was the incredible bread basket.

There were two types of flat bread, a focaccia with carmalized shallots, unbelievably tasty cheddar biscuits, sweetbread with pistachios and pears, and classic french bread. Our waiter warned us you could ruin dinner with th bread basket, and while entirely feasible, nothing could ruin the rest of dinner to come.
Next up was a starter of Abacus’ signature “Lobster Scallion ‘Shooters’”– the only thing on their menu which never changes.

The shooters are comprised of a bit of poached lobster in a wonton. The sauce is a blend of red chile, curry, and sake. The shooters come presented by the chef with the sauce on the side, and he instructs to simply “shoot, then chew.” The sauce is hot, really hot, but it hits the palate with an incredible amount of flavor. The wonton wrapped lobster is perfectly executed, and the flavors and textures marry together to form the most memorable appetizer I have ever encountered.
After such an outstanding starter, it seemed difficult for the entree’s to compare, but they certainly came through in the end. I opted for the seared diver scallops with a black-truffle and celery root puree with a shellfish emulsion. Incredible.

Johnny got the Corvian sea bass over basil gnocchi in some sort of tomato sauce. Another dish that was perfectly executed.

Dessert was the “Godiva Chocolate Soup;” an Abacus favorite. Godiva liqueur mixed with Valhrona chocolate, under an intensely chocolate brownie, topped with chocolate sorbet coated with macadamian nuts, with a wafer cookie and three honey-vanilla homemade marshmallows on top. There are no words.

As if the meal wasn’t perfect enough, we met Tre! After mentioning to our waiter we were big fans, Tre personally presented us with a signed menu and discussed our meal with us. A perfect ending to the perfect meal, and a perfect evening.

Merry Christmas!
-Mel














